Michael Dober: chef at the "Rosa Pulver"

"I’m not a typical Alpha chef" 

Good kitchens are often dominated by a harsh approach and the hierarchical structures are clearly defined. Michael Dober proves that things can be different in the kitchen at his "Rosa Pulver" restaurant in Winterthur. "I’m not a typical alpha chef," says the 33-year-old. "I’m looking for harmony at work and want to please everyone." 

Dober does not hide the fact that this type of leadership can also be a challenge. Because the classic French kitchen is often organized based on a strict military model, where the chefs lead the way and set the direction with clear, concise commands. Anyone who doesn’t get into line, is thrown out. Dober rejects such structures in his kitchen. 

Dober wanted to be a confectioner first 

Michael Dober from eastern Switzerland wants to lead differently, embodying the ideals of Generation Z. Other kitchens have shown how the tone has changed, the atmosphere has become more employee-friendly and the proportion of women is increasing. 

Dober has not grown into this chef role either, his career differs significantly from that of other chefs: At the age of 15, he started an apprenticeship as a confectioner, following in the footsteps of his parents, who run a cake shop in Flawil. Dober preferred cooking even then, but he was "overwhelmed by the atmosphere in the kitchen," Dober says today. 

Apprenticeship with top chefs 

Nevertheless, as a teenager he completed an apprenticeship in cooking, learning from Reto Lampart in Hägendorf, at the Zurich hipster restaurant "Maison Manesse" and from Ivo Adam at the "Seven" Ascona and Zermatt branches. 

He then became a chef by chance, as the then chef at the "Roter Turm" in Winterthur left. From then on, Dober shared the new leadership role with a colleague. Being creative on his own terms is what he likes about his work, he says today. 

Dober uses the whole animal at the "Rosa Pulver" 

In the meantime, Dober has served up a great deal of creativity, especially at the "Rosa Pulver" restaurant with 14 GaultMillau points in Winterthur, a former pop-up project. Dober has not only established a socially acceptable leadership culture, but also respects other values of his generation in his work: Where the animals he uses come from and how they grow up play just as important a role as other aspects of sustainable cooking. 

In his kitchen, for example, every single part of the pig is used, which is reflected in the main course: With the classic butter-basted pork chop, he serves an onion confit in lard, the pig’s blood produces a sweet "black pudding", its smoked heart is turned into a seasoning and the puffed skin becomes a crispy element. 

Dober broadens his guests’ horizons 

Although many guests are behind his concept, Dober does not want to patronize or lecture them – however he does want to broaden their horizons. The chef does this with a pork liver cream, for example, or with a XO sauce as a seasoning element that uses mussels and dried prawn from the Asia shop: "I make an exception here because I just like this sauce," says Dober. 

Dober draws new strength from his guests’ feedback 

The usually good feedback from guests builds him up, "it renews my energy," says Dober. And his motivation to keep going: "It’s about enjoying what I do. Going to a farm and getting to know the producers is just as much a part of it as collecting wild herbs, berries or fruits. But part of my job is also to ensure that my employees feel comfortable," says Dober. 

A good kitchen and friendly approach to staff do not have to be a contradiction in terms – at any rate, this combination works superbly at the "Rosa Pulver". Dober shows that a chef can also go a long way without the typical attitudes.